KATHMANDU

1 Kathmandu Durbar Square

Just a 10-minute walk from the tourist hub of Thamel is Kathmandu Durbar Square. Kathmandu Durbar Square is one of three Durbar Squares in the Kathmandu Valley. Before unification, each Durbar Square was the seat of one of the three royal families, and today, they are all listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

No visit to Kathmandu is complete without visiting the three Durbar Squares—Kathmandu Durbar Square, Patan Durbar Square, and Bhaktepur Durbar Square.

While Kathmandu Durbar Square was severely damaged by the 2015 earthquake, it has still kept its spirit alive. It can best be felt walking around the square, watching locals feed pigeons for good karma, offer Puja at the statue of Bhairav, and wait in silence for the appearance of the Kumari. While the most touristy of the three squares, there’s still something about Kathmandu Durbar Square that can’t be missed.

Make sure to see:

Kal Bhairav – A colorful, stone carving of Bhairav, Shiva in his destructive manifestation, where you can watch the religious practices of the locals. An intimidating god of justice, this statue of Bhairav served as a test for criminals to tell the truth.

Jagannath Temple – The oldest and most beautiful structure in the complex, and most famous for its erotic carvings. Dates back to 1563

The Royal Palace and Hanuman Dhoka – The former Royal Palace severely damaged by the 2015 earthquake, where in the main courtyard, you can still see a statue of the Hindu god at the main entrance.

Kumari Ghar – This beautifully carved Newari courtyard is home to the Kumari, believed to be a living goddess.

2 Meet Nepal’s living goddess, the kumari

Beginning in the 17th century, Nepali people in the Kathmandu Valley have chosen a girl, usually five or three-years-old but as young as one-and-a-half, to be the Kumari, a living goddess. Kumaris can only be chosen from a specific sect of the Newari and being chosen is a great honor.

Until the time she reaches puberty, the Kumari lives in the Kumari Ghar or temple, where she’s believed to be a living incarnation of the goddess Durga or Taleju Bhawani. Both Hindus and Buddhists believe in the Kumari who is chosen from a Buddhist family.

At the Kumari Ghar in Kathmandu Durbar Square, the Kumari appears briefly in the window twice a day at 11:00am and 4:00pm. Photos are strictly not allowed and foreigners are not allowed to meet the Kumari in person here.

At the Lalitpur Kumari Ghar in Patan, foreigners have a rare chance to be able to meet the Kumari. From 10:00am to 12:00pm and 2:00pm to 6:00pm, if you ring the bell at the Lalitpur Kumari Ghar to ask for permission to visit, you can visit the Kumari here for a blessing. It’s important that you ring the bell, as she’s playing with her siblings or doing her schoolwork when visitors aren’t around.

Chanira said she felt like a princess. She even went on to be a business analyst after her godess life! The Kumari gets to be a “normal” girl when not in the public eye, has homeschool lessons, plays with her siblings, and is treated like royalty.

3 “Kathmandu City Flavors,” Street food tour

Wander down the rabbit-warren streets of Thamel with guide Deepak in search of Kathmandu’s street food offerings. Our first stop is for what else but Momos! Momos, dumplings believed to have first originated from Tibet, might be Nepal’s most beloved food.

Deepak means “little light,” and he’s the perfect person to shine a light on Kathmandu’s food culture. With over ten tastings, you’ll taste everything from Nepali tea, “chiya,” lassi, samosas, jalebi, Chow Chow Sadheko (spiced Nepali instant noodles), thentuk (Tibetan hand-pulled noodle soup), and Panipurri in Kathmandu’s smallest restaurant!

4 Learn how to make Momos (for a good cause!)

No one has visited Nepal and not fallen in love with Momos! Learning how to make them at home might be the best souvenir you can bring back with you. Momos, coming from the Tibetan word mong for “tasty dumpling,” first arrived in Nepal from Tibet but Nepal has claimed them ever since.

Sasane, which means Sisterhood of Survivors, is a local non-profit empowering survivors of human trafficking with paralegal and hospitality training. They also receive employment through Momo-making classes! It’s a bit of learning how to make Nepal’s favorite food and a lot of learning resilience from these incredible women.

5 Mt Everest Scenic Flight

Want to see Mt. Everest without the trek? We got you! The Mt. Everest Scenic Flight might be the best invention in Kathmandu. Starting from Tibhuvan Airport, spend an hour in the skies soaring above the “Crown of the World.” Witness majestic, snow-capped peaks not many people get to see in their lifetime.

Everyone gets a window seat, as stewardesses point out the names and significance of each mesmerizing peak. The finale? Getting to see Mt. Everest, a moment that will no doubt end in tears and a lifetime of bragging rights.

6 Shopping in Thamel

You can spend hours shopping in Thamel, wandering its labyrinth of crowded streets in search of trekking gear (mostly imitation but good quality), singing bowls, Thanka art, and bronze statues in secreted-away antique shops. Look out for Mithila folk art, one of my favorite art styles native to Nepal and northern India. Part of the excitement lies in never knowing what you might find.

Try these shops:

Friendly Export – Friendly Export really stands out for their high quality, curated selection of yak wool, pashmina, cashmere, and merino sweaters, scarves, stoles, and blankets. We also love their eco-friendly collection of recycled goods like scrunchies made out of old saris and pens out of old newspapers! They also have the most detailed felted wool animals we’ve seen yet!

Himalayan Pashmina Export – Looking for cheap pashminas or the real deal “good stuff” in Kathmandu? Look no further than Himalayan Pashmina Export. Their prices start at 500 NPR for synthetic pashminas, and they are also honest about the type and quality of all of their products.Socially Responsible Travel: Bargaining isn’t just accepted here, it’s expected, but remember to always bargain with respect and don’t over bargain! What might seem like a small difference in us could mean another meal for a Nepalese family.

7 Try traditional Nepali food

Most Nepali food in the Kathmamdu Valley comes from Newari, the original people of the valley, or Tibet. As Tibetan immigrants came to Kathmandu, their food—like Momos!—traveled with them and became a part of Kathmandu’s food culture.

There are plenty of Newari dishes you have to try like dal bhat, Nepal’s national dish made of rice (bhat), dal, and small veg dishes and a meat curry if you like. It’s similar to a Nepali thali. Besides Momos, Tibetan noodle soups, thukpa and thenthuk, are a must-try!

Here are some Newari and Tibetan restaurants to try:

Yangling Tibetan Restaraunt (Thamel) – This is the place to try thukpa, a traditional Tibetan noodle soup, or our favorite, thenthuk, hand-pulled flat noodles. Their fried buffalo Momos are also among the best we ever tasted! 🤯

Himalayan Craft Restaurant Thahity Chowk (Thamel) – The thukpa here was among the best we ever had! So delicious, and that broth . . . so good!

Yo Mha (Lalitpur) – On the way to Patan Darbar Square, don’t forget to stop off at Yo Mha in the Kyampa Social Hub for some delicious Newari food. Here you can try juju dhau (sweet buffalo yogurt), yomari (sweet steamed dumplings), samey baji, and barra (pan-fried lentil patties). If you’re feeling adventurous, they even serve sapu mhicha, tripe stuffed with bone marrow, and fokso, stuffed, fried goat lungs. They also have the most delicious steamed, buffalo Momos for just 180 NPR!

8 Take a traditional Nepali cooking class

At the Kathmandu Cooking Academy, we chose from three dishes to learn how to make—Momos, dal bhat, barra, yomari, chicken curry with roti, chatamari, thukpa, mushroom choila, or carrot pudding. Of course, we chose Momos, dal bhat, and barra.

First, we stopped by a local market to pick up fresh ingredients, before an evening a lot of cooking and even more laughter. We left with new friends and an even greater appreciation of Nepali cuisine. (Everyone gets a photo of their three recipes to take home or can buy a full cooking book for just 3 USD).

9 Learn about Mithila art and take a Mithila art class

Mithila art, also called Madhubani, began as long as 5,000 years ago in the 7th or 8th century B.C. Then, the ancient kingdom of Mithila stretched from what is now Bihar, India to the Mithila capital, Janakpur, Nepal. Mithila artists painted on mud-walled-homes, using natural materials like cow dung and pigments from flowers.

Today, Mithila art in Nepal is primarily practiced in Janakpur, but painters Laxman and Sarita Mandal keep the art alive in Kathmandu. While Mithila art, known for its simplicity, traditionally depicted religion, village life, and animals, Laxman and Sarita paint scenes of empowerment—girls attending school or playing football, and business women with six arms like goddesses.

At their Mithila Art Center on the way to Bhaktapur, they teach Mithila art classes (2,500 NPR for a 2-hour class with lunch) and have a small shop. Most of their art is sold in shops in Thamel, but here you can see them at work, dreaming up new paintings to raise awareness for girls’ and women’s empowerment in Nepal.

10 Patan Darbar Square

Between the 12th and 18th centuries, Patan was the seat of the Patan Malla Kings. It’s the first place in history where Buddhist and Hindu temples coexist side by side. Today, it’s a favorite spot among locals where old men in topis sit side by side chatting on benches, toddlers run after pigeons, and young lovers walk hand in hand. Despite continuing to be rebuilt since the 2015 earthquake, there are a number of temples, a palace, and a museum to visit.

Make sure to see:

Patan Museum – Housed in the old palace, the museum features many bronze and copper deities, telling the story of Nepal’s rich culture, history, and religion.

Mul Chowk – Built in the 16th century, this is the central courtyard where most of the ceremonies and rituals take place.

Krishna Mandir – This, the most important temple in Patan, houses a shrine to Lord Krishna, along with shrines to Radha and Rukmini on either side.

11 Bhaktapur Durbar Square

About forty minutes from Thamel, lies the artistic capital of Kathmandu, Bhaktapur, known for its artistry and crafts. Inside a maze of narrow alleyways, craftsmen can be seen chiseling, painting, and in the south of this ancient Newari City, spinning pottery wheels.

Unlike Kathmandu’s other two Durbar Squares, a ticket is needed to enter the “core zone” of the city, not just the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Bhaktapur Durbar Square. But it’s worth it for a walk among the warm brick and storeyed square of this 15th century city.

Make sure to see:

Bhaktapur Durbar Square – Bhaktapur Durbar Square is a must-see, including the 55 window Palace, Golden Gate, and surrounding temples.

Nyatapola temple – A must-see, Nyatapola is the tallest pagoda ever built in Nepal.

Pottery square – In the South side of the city, you’ll find old men spinning clay, crafting beautiful souvenirs. You can even ask them to teach you a bit of their skills!

12 Free walking tour

Wander through local streets and alleyways from the tourist-trodden Thamel to a more local side of Kathmandu. Wander down busy alleyways, studying Newari architecture and learning about Nepalese culture and religion from quiet, local temples. to some of Kathmandu’s local temples, see a more local side of Kathmandu.

Learning about history, culture, and religion, while exploring a different side of Kathmandu most tourists don’t see—from the chaos of Asan Bazar to the cremation temples of the Bishnumati River, finishing with a panoramic view of the city at Swoyambhu Mahachaitya. Shiva takes you to hidden corners of the city you wouldn’t otherwise see from a 14th century local temple to the sari shops and glass beads.

13 Swayambhunath Stupa, the “Monkey Temple”

Perched atop a hill with 424 steps, it’s a bit of a climb, but the sweeping views of Kathmandu’s multi-colored streets are worth it. At the top, colorful prayer flags flutter in the wind and the golden stupa rises against a blue sky, dotted with clouds.

The base of the stupa is encircled by prayer wheels featuring the mantra om mani padme hum, “Hail to the jewel in the lotus.” Each level of the 13-story gold structure on its peak represents the 13 stages of Nirvana. Locals circumnavigate the stupa clockwise, spinning prayer wheels, lighting candles and incense, and giving offerings.

Especially in the early evening, the stupa becomes an enchanting mix of heady incense, butter candles, and the mesmerizing spin of prayer wheels, which makes it the best time to visit.

Swoyambhu Mahachaitya is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, first built in the 6th century, but was severely damaged in the 2015 earthquake. Before the earthquake, the stupa had 365 steps, one for each day of the year.

Some people call Swoyambhu Mahachaitya “Monkey Temple” for the cheeky red macaques climbing its stupas, but locals see this as offensive.

14 Kathi Swoyambhu, a local temple and hidden gem

In the courtyard, old men in topis sip chiya, children file into one of the temple’s four monasteries, prayer wheels turn rhythmically, and Tibetan monks light butter candles inside the monastery, Drubgon Jangchup Choeling.

Tucked away in a hidden corner, just near Asan Bazar, Kathi Swoyambhu is a peaceful, local temple built in 1650 A.D., seemingly far away from the busy streets of Thamel and chaos of Asan Bazar but really just a short walk away. It’s the perfect way to get away from the scooter-dodging-hurry of the city and sit on a bench, joining locals in chiya and admiring the calm and peace of Kathi Swoyambhu.

15 Pashupatinath Temple

Attracting millions of Hindu pilgrims from India and Nepal each year, Pashupatinath is one of the most revered temples in all of Hinduism. In existence since 400 A.D., Pashupatinath is a mix of heady incense, the footfall of pilgrims, and the chanting of priests. Bulls wander the temple streets, and bodies burn beneath layers of wood on the riverside.

One of few living cultural heritage sites, Pashupatinath is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and includes 518 temples and other buildings. The main temple, Pashupatinath, is considered a masterpiece.

16 Witness the Aarti ceremony at Pashupatinath Temple

Every day around 6:30 or 7:00pm, hundreds of Hindus of every age gather at the river’s edge in rowdy anticipation for the Aarti ceremony. Dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva, the ceremony begins with singing and chanting. Priests light serpent-shaped candles, as the sky darkens and the air fills with smoke. By the end of the Aarti, everyone is on their feet, dancing, clapping, and swept up in the excitement of it all.

It’s possible to attend the ceremony as a tourist. Just remember that this is a religious ceremony and deserves respect.

17 Boudhanath Stupa

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Boudhanath Stupa became the home of Tibetan Buddhism in Kathmandu during the 1950’s when refugees from Tibetan China sought shelter in the streets and alleyways of the Stupa.

Today, as you approach the Stupa from the chaotic main road outside, its large, lime-washed dome gleams in the sun. Countless Buddhist prayers flags flutter in the wind, and the all-seeing eyes of Buddha gaze out from the biggest stupa in Kathmandu.

Cheeky school children toss around a cricket ball, Tibetan monks and nuns circle the Stupa counterclockwise, turning prayer wheels as they go, and the copper of the 36 meter Stupa glints in the bright sun.

Spend at least an hour walking around the Stupa, people watching and admiring its size and spiritual symbolism. Make sure to visit one of the many rooftop cafes for a view from above, where the Stupa can be seen towering above the skyline.

18 Jana Banal (Seto Macchendranth Temple)

Just outside the spice-laden, copper-gleaming streets of Asan Bazar but seemingly worlds away, lies this 16th century temple to Seto Machindranath, worshipped by Buddhists as a form of Avalokiteshvara who embodies the compassion of all Buddhas and to Hindus as a rain-bringing form of Shiva.

Inside the temple gates, alight with swirling plumes of incense and the fragrance of butter candles, you’ll find locals turning prayer wheels, lighting candles, and giving offerings.

Surprisingly, you’ll also find a very different deity from the rest—a statue of Aphrodite imported from Greece—but that locals light candles for nonetheless.

19 Asan Bazar

Getting lost in Asan Bazar is one of the best things to do in Kathmandu. Wander down alleyways of glinting copper pots, plates, and religious statues, trying not to be run over by a scooter along the way, and admire the rush of market-goers in the busiest market of Nepal’s chaotic capital.

Nuns sort through spices, young lovers buy glass beads from Muslim shopkeepers, and Nepali women search for saris. It’s a perfect microcosm of life in Nepal.

20 Get a massage and support the blind community

Seeing Hands is a social initiative to provide employment opportunities to visually impaired people in Nepal. A sixty-minute full-body Swedish massage is just 2,000 NPR (15 USD). It’s a great way to get a massage after a long flight, trekking, or too much Thamel shopping, and also support the blind community in Nepal.

How to Plan Your Trip to Kathmandu

Where to Stay in Kathmandu

Staying in Thamel will mean you’re a short walk or car ride away from most of Kathmandu’s best things to do. For budget stays, Hotel Mahduban was great with a rooftop terrace, free breakfast and less than 2km away from Kathmandu Durbar Square.

How to Get Around Kathmandu

The best way to get around is by InDrive. If you stay in Thamel, most attractions will always be a short walk or car ride away. Hiring a taxi from Thamel to attractions like Boudhanath Stupa and Pashupatinath Temple or Tribhuvan International Airport should cost 500 to 600 NPR, but depends on your bargaining skills.

The cheapest way to get around is by local bus (an adventure in itself). Most local buses leave from Kantipath or Ratna Park bus stops just outside of Thamel.

 Where to Eat in Kathmandu

Himalayan Java Tridevi Thamel (Thamel) – The perfect coffee shop for remote working or a hangout over great coffee.

Eloriu (Thamel) – Our favorite restaurant in Kathmandu happens to be Korean, but with incredibly friendly staff and tasty chicken Gimbap for just 400 NPR, who can blame us?

Safety in Kathmandu

Kathmandu is a fairly safe city. The biggest scam you might fall prey to is paying too much for a souvenir or tour, but watch out for pickpockets in markets and crowded areas. Especially in Thamel, there are many people selling weed and hash, but this is illegal in Nepal. Unfortunately, it’s not advisable for women to walk alone at night or in secluded areas. For added safety, connect with other female travelers in the Girls Love Travel and Host a Sister Facebook groups.

Health in Kathmandu

Only drink filtered water, not tap. Avoid eating out at unpopular restaurants or street food stalls that are not vetted by other tourists. Avoid eating vegetables and fruits that are cut, not peeled. Brush your teeth with filtered water, not tap. If worse comes to worse, carry Imodium with you along with toilet paper and hand sanitizer.
 
Malaria and dengue fever are still a risk in Kathmandu, so make sure to take anti-malaria tablets.

Travel Insurance for Nepal

Whatever you do, don’t travel without travel insurance. Whether it’s sickness, theft, or lost luggage, something WILL go wrong, and travel insurance is your only way of lessening costs!