DELHI

1 Jama Masjid

Built between 1644 and 1656 by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan and architect Ustad Ahmad Lahori of Taj Mahal fame, Jama Masjid is the second largest mosque in northern India. As you walk through its royal east gate, its stunning white marble domes and red sandstone minarets appear to be rising against a clear blue sky.

Inside the mosque, intricate black onyx detailing contrasts with delicate crystal chandeliers; its walls reverberate with history. Standing on the hot courtyard, bathed in sun, taking in the mesmerizing beauty of the Red Fort and Chandni Chowk, provides a moment of peace in this bustling city.

2 Humayun’s Tomb

Like the Taj Mahal is a testament to a husband’s love for his wife, Humayun’s Tomb is a testament to a wife’s love for her husband. Finished in 1570, fourteen years after her husband’s death, Biga Begum honored her husband Humayum, the second Mughal emperor of India, with this enduring testament of her love, carved in red sandstone, black and white marble, and adorned with blue pottery.

Sixty years later, Shah Jahan would take inspiration from Humayun’s Tomb when building the Taj Mahal. Spend an hour here, wandering the manicured gardens, fragrant with plumeria blossoms and shaded with banyan trees, while looking for similarities between Humayun’s Tomb and the Taj Mahal.

3 Qutb Minar

Qutb is a sprawling complex, full of crumbling madrassas, mosques, and tombs left behind by the first sultans of India’s “slave dynasty,” also the first Muslim leaders of India. Walking through the rubble of red sandstone, admiring bells and flowers carved into pillars, and the glinting sun over the cool stone pathways, the history of India’s sultans whispers like a breeze.

Qutb was in Lalkot, the first of Delhi’s historic seven cities and conquered by Muhammad of Ghur. When Muhammad of Ghur returned to Afghanistan, he left his slave, Qutbuddin Aibak, behind as administrator. Qutbuddin Aibak became the first sultan of Delhi, beginning India’s “slave dynasty” from 1192 A.D. to 1296 A.D.

What to See at Qutb Minar

Qutb Minar: Towering at 72m, Qutb Minar was built as a victory tower by Qutbuddin Aibak in celebration for defeating India’s Rajput kings, but Qutbuddin Aibak passed away after only the first story was built. The rest of the towering, red sandstone and white marble monument was finished by Iltutmish in 1200 A.D. It is India’s largest stone tower but still stands 5 feet shy of the Taj Mahal. The Kulfi? inscriptions on each of its storeys tell the story of Qutb Minar itself.

Tomb of Iltutmish: He was the second sultan of the “slave dynasty,” and the first Indian sultan to appoint his daughter, Raziya, as successor. She was the first lady sultan of India, and famously put down her veil to appear in male dress in the public audience hall. Iltutmish was also the sultan to expand the madrasa and finish Qutb Minar after Qutbuddin Aibak’s death.

Iron Pillar: One of India’s many mysteries has an answer lost in time. This over seventy-meter-tall iron pillar from the 4th century A.D. still stands smooth and onyx-black, refusing to rust through the ages. At its beginning it held a statue of Garuda, a Hindu god. It’s likely the pillar originated in southern India, but was later transported to the site before Qutb was built. Don’t miss this ageless mystery inside the Madrasa of Alauddin Khalji.

4 Delhi Food Tour

For a stroll down the iconic Chondi Chowk and a taste of the chaats Delhi is famous for, let A Chef’s Tour be your local guide. You’ll wander down busy streets past rickshaws, in search of Old Delhi’s best lacchedar rabdi, kachori, and paratha. Even if you can’t pronounce them yet, you have to try them!

One of the best parts about a food tour in Delhi is you know you won’t be crossing “Delhi belly” off your bucket list. Every dish is carefully selected, so you can safely enjoy the best of India’s street food scene.

5 Red Fort

In 1639 after Shah Jahan moved his capital from Agra to Delhi, he commissioned the building of Red Fort, an expanse of 121 acres with red sandstone and white marble palaces, halls, mosques, and hammams. Ustad Ahmad Lahori, architect of Jama Masjid and the Taj Mahal, designed the Red Fort with geometric patterns in red sandstone and flowers of carnelian, agate, malachite, and onyx inlaid in white marble.

The fort’s name was, “Qila-i-Mubarak,” which means “Blessed Fort.” Today it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and also where India celebrates independence after hundreds of years of occupation at Red Fort by the Moguls, the Afghans, and later, the British.

6 Gandhi Smitri

On January 30, 1948, Nathuram Godse, a Hindu nationalist, assassinated Gandhi at Birla House, now called Gandhi Smitri which means memories or relics of Gandhi. Now the house has been turned into a museum, holding his room as he left it with his famous glasses and walking stick on display, along with exhibits on his life and Satyagraha, culminating in a memorial where he took his last walk.

7 Khari Baoli spice market

Sacks of fragrant red chilies, turmeric, and chill powder spill out into Asia’s largest spice market, Khari Baoli, the second largest spice market in the world. Wander through alleys of cardamon, cinnamon, and star anise, before climbing the steps to the roof, where the market below spins in constant motion.

From the rooftops, notice the fusion of Indo-Mogul architecture, and watch the hurry of bikes pedaling past, jute sacks overflowing with red chilies baking in the hot sun, and visitors coughing through the heady aroma.

8 Urgasen ki Baoli

Hidden down a side street near Connaught Place and Jantar Mantar, New Delhi’s best hidden gem lies tucked away beneath the shade of trees and a red sandstone mosque. No one really knows who built Urgasen ki Baoli or when, adding to the stepwell’s alluring charm. But it’s most commonly believed to have been built by Maharaja Ugrasen in the 14th century, as a water reservoir where women could bathe and change in its arches.

Many Bollywood movies such as PK, Kabhi Alvida na Kehna, and Shubh Mangal Savdhan have all been shot here, but Salman Khan’s scene in Sulktan made it a favorite local hideaway.

9 Try the world’s first butter chicken

With art deco walls, soft pink ceilings, and plushy, tan leather seats, it’s an unlikely setting for the debut of the world’s first butter chicken, but Moti Mahal has been serving up its world famous butter chicken since India’s independence in 1947. It’s everything you’d want from a butter chicken—creamy and delicious but served with pickled onions and a recommended pairing with garlic naan. Even the Kennedys, Gordon Ramsay, and Prime Minister Nehru have all broken naan here.

First founded by Kundan Lal Jaggi and Kundan Lal Gujral from Peshawar in now-Pakistan, their grandsons are suing over whose grandfather deserves the title of “The Inventor of Butter Chicken.” One grandson owns Moti Mahal, the original restaurant, near the Red Fort, while the other owns the Daryaganj Restaurant in Connaught Place. Visit both if you want to put these grandsons to the test.

10 Haggle at Janpath Market and Bazar Sangatrashan

Just off Connaught Place, Janpath Market is a bustling street of small shops and stalls selling everything from Kashmiri papier-mâché to bejeweled kurtas and beaded home decor. It’s popular among tourists and locals alike, making it a great place to snag a deal if you’re up to bargaining. For souvenirs from faux-fur shawls to singing bowls to incense, wander down Bazar Sangatrashan on Main Bazar Road.

My favorite shop is Shri Roop Niketan Wooden Blocks Collection, a treasure trove of Indian block print designs practically overflowing onto the street outside. If you’re eager to recreate block printing at home or have block prints in mind for another creative project, this is the place to visit.

How to Plan Your Trip to Delhi

Where to Stay in Delhi

Staying near to Connaught Place will mean you’re a 15 to 20 minute drive away from most of Delhi’s best things to do. For budget stays, De Hocks Deluxe was okay with free breakfast and less than 1.5km away from Connaught Place.

How to Get to Delhi

The best way to visit Delhi is by train to New Delhi Railway Station or plane to Indira Gandhi International Airport. You can also take a bus or hire a private taxi to Delhi. Flying or hiring a private taxi will be the most expensive. You can book trains directly from the IRCTC website, from ixigo, or from 12Go.

How to Get Around Delhi

The best way to get around is by Uber, but Uber won’t always be available depending on the traffic and time of day. If you stay near to Connaught Place, most attractions will be within a 15 to 20 minute drive. Hiring a tuk-tuk from Connaught Place to attractions like the Red Fort, Humayun’s Tomb, and even Qutb Minar should cost 200 to 300 INR, but depends on your bargaining skills.

The best way to get around Delhi on a budget is by taking the metro. Even thirty minute rides to Qutb Minar from Connaught Place only cost 30 INR. Unlike in other countries, don’t need to buy a metro card in order to buy tickets either. Tickets can easily be bought from the ticket desk. Follow directions from Google Maps for which line to take and which station to get off at.

 Where to Eat in Delhi

Sagar Ratna – Delicious North Indian thali for just 355 INR, and South Indian thali for 295 INR!

Saravana Bhavan – Right next to Sagar Ratna, famous for their authentic preparation of South Indian cuisine like thalis, chutneys, and dosas. If the queue is too long, especially on weekends, head next door to Sagar Ratna!

Moti Mahal – For mouthwatering, creamy and delicious butter chicken (the world’s first!) paired with garlic naan!Daryaganj Restaurant – The second restaurant in Delhi with a stake in the claim to fame for the world’s first butter chicken

Safety in Delhi

Like the rest of India, unfortunately it’s still not advisable for women to walk alone at night or in secluded areas. For added safety, connect with other female travelers in the Girls Love Travel and Host a Sister Facebook groups. Be wary of pickpockets in markets and crowded areas. Indians migrate to Delhi from all over the country for better opportunities. Unfortunately, this also means Delhi’s streets are overflowing with opportunities for crime and exploitation of the most vulnerable.

Scams in Delhi

Delhi is infamous among travelers for scams, but as long as you’re alert and aware, there’s not much to be worried about when visiting this city. Delhi reminds me a lot of New York City. They’re both vibrant, busy cities, bursting at the seams with millions of people all looking to find their way in the world. Unfortunately, that also means scammers are looking to take advantage of that, too. It’s important to know what scams to watch out for. Some common scans to avoid in Delhi are—the train scam, the tuk-tuk fare scam, the commission scam, the hotel scam, the pen scam, and the note scam.
 
The train scam – At train stations in Delhi, you might be approached by someone who says the ticket office is closed. They’ll then take you to what they say is an official booking office, where they’ll heavily overcharge you for tickets that are already available. To avoid this, book your train tickets online directly from the IRCTC website, from ixigo, or from 12Go.
 
The tuk-tuk fare scam – Make sure to confirm how much your ride will cost before getting in the tuk-tuk or cab. Don’t listen when the driver says “Up to you. You tell me at the end.” If you don’t agree on a price upfront, they can overcharge you at the end of the trip. You only have to pay the agreed upon price. If they ask for more than you agreed, you do not have to pay them extra. It’s up to you whether you want to tip or not.
 
The commission scam – Tuk-tuk and cab drivers will jump at the chance to take you to a shop of your choice, where they promise “looking is free” or “no buy, only look.” They are so eager to take you to these shops because they earn a commission from what you buy. Just say no!
 
The hotel scam – Your tuk-tuk or cab driver tells you your hotel is closed, but that’s okay because they know just the place to take you instead. In reality, your hotel is not closed; they just want commission for bringing you to a hotel they know. This scam is harder to pull off now with sites like Booking.com, but it still happens.
 
The pen scam – Children on the street know not everyone wants to handout money, so they’ll ask for something else—pens for school. Well-meaning foreigners buy them these pens in the hopes they’re being used for good, but in reality, the children have a deal with the shopkeepers who will return them for money once you leave.
 
The note scam – Carefully check what note you hand someone when paying at shops and stalls. The shopkeeper might tell you you gave them a 50 INR note for example, instead of a 100 INR note. Even if you have a feeling this has happened, it’s really difficult to prove if you aren’t positive what note you gave them first.

Health in Delhi

Only drink filtered water, not tap. Avoid eating out at unpopular restaurants or street food stalls that are not vetted by other tourists. Avoid eating vegetables and fruits that are cut, not peeled. Brush your teeth with filtered water, not tap. If worse comes to worse, carry Imodium with you along with toilet paper and hand sanitizer, and enjoy India’s incredible food! To quote Anthony Bourdain, “Indian food won’t kill you.”
 
Malaria and dengue fever are still a risk in Delhi, so make sure to take anti-malaria tablets.

Travel Insurance for India

Whatever you do, don’t travel without travel insurance. Whether it’s sickness, theft, or lost luggage, something WILL go wrong, and travel insurance is your only way of lessening costs!

India Travel Essentials

Traveling comes with a unique set of challenges. To keep your journey happy, healthy, and safe, I recommend traveling with these:

Addalock (Don’t travel to India without this! It’s an added safety lock that works with any door).

Ear plugs and eye mask (For overnight train rides!)

Hand sanitiser and wet wipes (In India, these are a must.)

Reusable water bottle  (Save plastic by investing in a Grayl water purification bottle, which lets you fill up from any water source, anywhere in the world.)

Power bank (There’s not much worse than running out of phone battery and not being able to find your way home.)

International travel adapter (You’ll need at least one of these for all of your trips.)

For a full list of my travel recommendations, click here!