AGRA

1 Sunrise at the Taj Mahal

While he had two other wives, history suggests Shah Jahan really did love Mumtaz. They met in a bazaar when Shah Jahan first saw her. He was fifteen and she was just fourteen but they had to wait five years before they could marry. After having fourteen children, Mumtaz died at age thirty-eight during childbirth. A grieving Shah Jahan built the Taj Mahal in her memory where both of them are entombed together beneath white marble, and delicate inlays of lapis lazuli, carnelian, malachite, and other semi-precious stones. It took seventeen years to build and was finished in 1648.

By far, the best way to see this crown jewel of India is to visit at sunrise when it first opens. Spend a couple of hours walking around the gardens, admiring the architecture and learning about the history of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz.Did you know? The Taj Mahal wasn’t open to visitors until after India’s independence in 1947. Before that, it had been looted by the British who stole diamonds from its marble inlays. Once a year, the actual tombs of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz in the Taj Mahal basement are open for Muslim pilgrims to visit.

2 Agra Fort

Before Delhi, Agra was the capital of India’s Mughal emperors and Agra Fort was their bastion of power. From 1565 to 1660 four generations of Mughal emperors sat enthroned here. Famously, it’s where Shah Jahan lived with his wife, Mumtaz; it’s where they shared palace rooms with their children overlooking Yamuna River.

After her death, it’s where Shah Jahan spent the last of his days imprisoned by his son in his own palace with the love-worn sight of his wife’s memory in the Taj Mahal his only view. The Taj Mahal may be where the royal couple is entombed, but Agra Fort is where they lived and their famous or infamous love story comes alive within its sandstone walls.

3 “Baby Taj,” Tomb of I’timad-ud-Daulah

The tomb of I’timad-ud-Daulah, lovingly called the “Baby Taj,” is a tender testament to a daughter’s love. Mehr-un-Nissa, wife of Emperor Jahangir, had this tomb built for her father Mirza Ghiyas Beg and his wife Asmat Begum. Her father was called “I’timad-ud-Daulah,” Pillar of the Empire. Floral inlays of cypresses, irises, poppies, tulips, lilies, honeysuckle, figs, pomegranates, and grapes evoke a garden of paradise. Finished in 1628, it is the Mughal first tomb to be built in white marble, inspiring Shah Jahan’s Taj Mahal.

4 Sunrise boat ride next to the Taj Mahal

It’s sunrise, and the mist on Yamuna River spreads out like a thin pashmina. Along the river, old men gather to do laughing yoga, a woman feeds cows for karma, and there’s a wooden boat tied to the banks. A few years ago, the government banned boat rides at the Taj Mahal, but one determined man with a friendly relationship with Taj Mahal security makes this once-in-a-life-time experience live on. If you’re visiting outside of peak season, you’ll likely have the banks to yourself and can bargain for the price of a 15-20 minute boat ride (between 500 and 800 INR depending on your bargaining skills).

Reaching this spot is really easy. Follow directions in Google Maps, or simply once you reach Taj East gate, turn right and walk all the way on the left until you reach the river. Simple! He’s there from sunrise until about 6:00am, so you can either visit first thing on a different day or combine it with a visit inside the Taj Mahal.

From the wooden boat, there’s a peaceful stillness in the lapping of the waves on the riverbank, the silhouettes of birds overhead, and the shimmering reflection of the Taj Mahal.

It’s my favorite way to see the Taj Mahal by far. From here, surrounded by the quiet of dawn, you really get a sense of how seeing the Taj Mahal must have felt before tours and before cameras and before travelers even. I couldn’t help but think this is how Shah Jahan might have wanted it to he seen.

5 Sheroes Hangout Cafe

Acid attack survivors come from all over India to work at Sheroes Hangout Cafe, a cafe started by Chhanv Foundation to empower acid attack survivors. Not only is their coffee and vegetarian food (by donation) amazing, but the women have had to be so courageous yet remain so kind and humble. One survivor, Rukaiya, said, “All women are brave.” Getting henna from these beautiful, brave women costs 500 INR, and is a beautiful, personal moment to share with them. It’s also a great way to use travel for good.

“My thinking is all women are brave.” – Rukaiya, acid acid attack survivor

6 Sunset at Mehtab Bagh

When Shah Jahan built the iconic Taj Mahal, he wanted there to be a beautiful backdrop for this mausoleum of paradise, so fragrant frangipani blossoms were planted across the river. When his son imprisoned him in 1658, Shah Jahan had begun building another mausoleum for himself in black onyx to contrast with the Raj Mahal’s white marble. To this day, you can still see the sandstone foundation of Shah Jahan’s “Black Taj” along the river, smell frangipani blossoms, and gaze at this view of the Taj Mahal as Shah Jahan once did. It’s considered the best sunset view of the Taj Mahal. Visit on a Friday for spectacular views without the crowds.

How to Plan Your Trip to Agra

Where to Stay in Agra

Staying near to the Taj Mahal will mean you’re a 15 to 25 minute drive away from the rest of Agra’s best things to do. For budget stays, Genesis Homestay was okay with free breakfast available and less than 1.5km away from the Taj Mahal.

How to Get to Agra

The best way to visit Agra is by train to Agra Cantt or Agra Fort station. You can alsoo take a bus, hire a private taxi, or fly to Agra Airport. Flying or hiring a private taxi will be the most expensive. You can book trains directly from the IRCTC website, from ixigo, or from 12Go.

How to Get Around Agra

The best way to get around is by Uber. If you stay near to the Taj Mahal, most attractions like Agra Fort and Itmad-ud-Daula will be within a 15 to 25 minute drive. Hiring a tuk-tuk from nearby the Taj Mahal to attractions like the Agra Fort and Itmad-ud-Daula should cost 150 to 200 INR, but depends on your bargaining skills.

 Where to Eat in Agra

Sheroes Hangout Cafe – For amazing coffee and vegetarian food (by donation), and an even better cause!

Chef Signature Restaurant – Just 1.5km from the Taj Mahal, a rooftop restaurant serving some of the best food we had in India! We loved their Kadai Chicken for just 350 INR.Heart of Taj Cafe & Kitchen – Across the street from Chef Signature Restaurant, an even better rooftop view with a glimpse of the Taj Mahal from their top floor. What their food lacks in flavor it makes up for with unbeatable sunset views.

Safety in Agra

Like the rest of India, unfortunately it’s still not advisable for women to walk alone at night or in secluded areas. For added safety, connect with other female travelers in the Girls Love Travel and Host a Sister Facebook groups. Agra is a fairly safe city, but be wary of pickpockets in markets and crowded areas.

Health in Agra

Only drink filtered water, not tap. Avoid eating out at unpopular restaurants or street food stalls that are not vetted by other tourists. Avoid eating vegetables and fruits that are cut, not peeled. Brush your teeth with filtered water, not tap. If worse comes to worse, carry Imodium with you along with toilet paper and hand sanitizer, and enjoy India’s incredible food! To quote Anthony Bourdain, “Indian food won’t kill you.”
 
Malaria and dengue fever are still a risk in Agra, so make sure to take anti-malaria tablets.

Travel Insurance for India

Whatever you do, don’t travel without travel insurance. Whether it’s sickness, theft, or lost luggage, something WILL go wrong, and travel insurance is your only way of lessening costs!

India Travel Essentials

Traveling comes with a unique set of challenges. To keep your journey happy, healthy, and safe, I recommend traveling with these:

Addalock (Don’t travel to India without this! It’s an added safety lock that works with any door).

Ear plugs and eye mask (For overnight train rides!)

Hand sanitiser and wet wipes (In India, these are a must.)

Reusable water bottle  (Save plastic by investing in a Grayl water purification bottle, which lets you fill up from any water source, anywhere in the world.)

Power bank (There’s not much worse than running out of phone battery and not being able to find your way home.)

International travel adapter (You’ll need at least one of these for all of your trips.)

For a full list of my travel recommendations, click here!