JAISALMER

1 Overnight in the Thar Desert

As the sun relents of its heat, finally in the late afternoon, boys play cricket beneath acacia trees, and women walk to the well with pots balanced on their heads. Along the roadside, camels make strange silhouettes, and herds of cows and goats walk between villages for water. This is the Thar Desert, made up of sandstone villages spread between sun-caressed dunes.

Jaisalmer is on the edge of the Thar Desert, and you can’t travel this far without staying overnight either in a desert tent or out beneath the stars on the dunes themselves. Stay in Khuri, a more local desert town than Sam just 50 minutes from Jaisalmer, climb the dunes for sunset, and watch Rajasthani folk music beneath the stars.

2 Jaisalmer Fort

It’s a time-worn cliche, but walking up to the Jaisalmer Fort beneath the shadow of its golden sandstone walls and palace really does feel like stepping back in time. Built in the 12th century, the “Golden Fort” can be seen from all corners of sun-touched Jaisalmer, but the best way to see it is within the walls themselves.

There are many tour guides who will take you on a tour of the Fort, palace, and Jain temples for 300 INR (excluding entry to the palace and Jain temples). But the best way to experience it is by getting wonderfully lost among colorways of Rajasthani textiles, mazes of narrow streets and alleyways, and glimpses of the mesmerizing display of Jaisalmer spreading towards the Thar Desert.

3 Gadisar Lake

Built in the 14th century by Maharaja Gadsi Singh, this picturesque reservoir was once the primary water source for Jaisalmer. Today, it’s a tranquil oasis amidst the dry desert landscape, offering cool from the striking heat. Visit here at golden hour to unwind beside the serene waters of Gadisar Lake. Take a leisurely boat ride across the shimmering waters, and marvel at the ornate floating chhatris. After sunset, wait for the nightly water show.

4 Patwa Havelis

Step back in time and explore the exquisite craftsmanship of Jaisalmer’s iconic Patwa Havelis. These intricately-designed mansions, built by the wealthy Patwa family in the 19th century, are renowned for their intricate yellow sandstone carvings and ornate facades. Wander through the labyrinthine corridors and opulent courtyards, admiring the intricate detailing that adorns every surface.

From embedded ivory to Belgian glass lattices and balconies, each element tells a story of the city’s rich cultural heritage and artistic legacy. Don’t miss the opportunity to glimpse into the lives of Jaisalmer’s elite as you marvel at the grandeur of these historic havelis.

5 Local Market

Women in gold-edged saris walk hand-in-hand with bright-eyed children. Men in colorful turbans, long white robes, and twisting mustaches sip chai along the roadside in one of Jaisalmer’s most local markets. Wander through, eyeing stalls of vegetables and fruits ripening in the desert heat, and dodging cows, goats, and tuk-tuks.

6 Bada Bagh

Discover the architectural marvels of Bada Bagh, a sprawling complex of cenotaphs and memorials located on the outskirts of Jaisalmer. Built by the royal families of Jaisalmer in the 16th century, Bada Bagh is a tribute to the valor and legacy of past rulers. Stroll through the meticulously landscaped gardens, where rows of intricately carved chhatris stand tall against the desert sky.

Each cenotaph is a testament to the grandeur of Rajput architecture, with intricate carvings and delicate detailing that showcase the skill and craftsmanship of the artisans. As you explore this historic site, you’ll be transported back in time to an era of royal splendor and noble heritage.

6 Kuldhara Heritage Village

Nestled amidst the golden sands of the Thar Desert, Kuldhara Heritage Village whispers tales of a forgotten time, where silence echoes the secrets of its abandoned streets. Once a thriving community of Paliwal Brahmins, the village now stands as a haunting reminder of its mysterious past, its deserted homes and crumbling walls bearing witness to centuries of untold stories.

Some say the village had to flee overnight as Salim Singh, a powerful ruler of Jaisalmer, demanded to marry one of their daughters despite caste rules. Others point to drought and earthquakes. Whatever the reason, the abandoned village of Kuldhara casts an eerie ambience, as the sun shinew over the barren landscape, casting shadows upon the forgotten village.

7 Jain Temples

Perched atop the golden sandstone cliffs of Jaisalmer Fort, the Jain temples stand as timeless guardians of faith amidst the vast desert expanse. After their temples were destroyed by invading Moguls, the Jain community asked the Jaisalmer royal family if they could build their temples in Jaisalmer Fort.

These temples are now a testament to the architectural knowledge and spiritual devotion of ancient artisans from the 12th to the 15th centuries, who carved each temple with exquisite precision and intricate designs. Each temple tells its own story through elaborately sculpted pillars, celestial deities, and vibrant frescoes depicting scenes from Jain mythology.

How to Plan Your Trip to Jaisalmer

Where to Stay in Jaisalmer

Staying inside or near Jaisalmer Fort will mean you’re in walking distance or a short tuk-tuk ride away from most of Jaisalmer’s best things to do. For budget stays, Hotel Lal Garh was fantastic with a rooftop restaurant and less than 1.5km away from Jaisalmer Fort.

How to Get to Jaisalmer

The best way to visit Jaisalmer is by train to Jaisalmer station, but you can also take a bus, hire a private taxi, or fly in to Jaisalmer Airport. The last two options will be the most expensive. You can book trains directly from the IRCTC website, or from 12Go.

How to Get Around Jaisalmer

The best way to get around is by Uber, but Uber won’t be available inside Jaisalmer Fort where cars aren’t able to go. If you stay near Jaisalmer Fort, most attractions will be within walking distance. Hiring a tuk-tuk from here to attractions like Gadisar Lake should cost 150 to 200 INR, but depends on your bargaining skills.

 Where to Eat in Agra

The Traveler’s Cup – Order delicious muesli with fresh fruits and curd for just 180 INR. Also their cappuccinos are the best we had in India!

Pleasant Haveli Rooftop Restaurant – We loved this rooftop restaurant so much we ate here at least once a day during our trip (sometimes twice!). Their creamy paneer handi is oh-so-good!

Safety in Jaisalmer

Like the rest of India, unfortunately it’s still not advisable for women to walk alone at night or in secluded areas. For added safety, connect with other female travelers in the Girls Love Travel and Host a Sister Facebook groups. Being so remote, Jaisalmer is a fairly safe city, but watch out for pickpockets in markets and crowded areas.

Health in Jaisalmer

Only drink filtered water, not tap. Avoid eating out at unpopular restaurants or street food stalls that are not vetted by other tourists. Avoid eating vegetables and fruits that are cut, not peeled. Brush your teeth with filtered water, not tap. If worse comes to worse, carry Imodium with you along with toilet paper and hand sanitizer, and enjoy India’s incredible food! To quote Anthony Bourdain, “Indian food won’t kill you.”
 
Malaria and dengue fever are still a risk in Rajasthan, so make sure to take anti-malaria tablets. In February 2019, Rajasthan had the highest number of dengue and malaria cases in all of India.

Travel Insurance for India

Whatever you do, don’t travel without travel insurance. Whether it’s sickness, theft, or lost luggage, something WILL go wrong, and travel insurance is your only way of lessening costs!

India Travel Essentials

Traveling comes with a unique set of challenges. To keep your journey happy, healthy, and safe, I recommend traveling with these:

Addalock (Don’t travel to India without this! It’s an added safety lock that works with any door).

Ear plugs and eye mask (For overnight train rides!)

Hand sanitiser and wet wipes (In India, these are a must.)

Reusable water bottle  (Save plastic by investing in a Grayl water purification bottle, which lets you fill up from any water source, anywhere in the world.)

Power bank (There’s not much worse than running out of phone battery and not being able to find your way home.)

International travel adapter (You’ll need at least one of these for all of your trips.)

For a full list of my travel recommendations, click here!