FES

1 Bou Inania Madrasa

Bou Inania Madrasa is the only Madrasa you can visit as a non-Muslim. Visit early or late in the day to avoid the crowds and find a moment of quiet within its walls, marveling at the intricacy of its lace-like plaster, elegant tile, and the stunning tower of the minaret. We visited around 3:00pm on a weekday and could find a moment of peace in this bustling city.

2 Al Attarine Madrasa

Built between 1310 and 1325, Al Attarine Madrasa next to Kairaouine mosque is the oldest university in the world. Only Muslims are allowed inside, but there’s a beautiful terrace view of the picturesque green tiles and minaret from this rug shop.

3 The Blue Gate

Sitting in a terrace cafe, watching the wave of locals and travelers in and out of The Blue Gate is one of the most relaxing things to do in Fes. It connects you to the wave of people that have been flowing in and out of that gate for centuries, reminding you of your place in it.

4 Explore the medina

The medina, meaning old city, is the beating heart of Fes. Dating to the 9th century, the medina is a maze of 9,500 tiny streets even Google Maps can’t navigate, making getting lost here one of the best things to do in Morocco.

Fes is for adventures. Step back in time to an era of no cars, no street lights, and no rigid sidewalks or painted streets, remember the call of the medina, the heady aroma of amber and jasmine from the spice souks, the smell of grease cooking tajine, the heavy pounding of donkey carts, and bargaining of locals that’s been daily life in Fes for more than a thousand years.

Listen to the rhythmic call to prayer from the adhan, dodge the donkey carts and sweets sellers, and indulge your senses in the sights and smells of North Africa’s oldest and largest medina. There’s a story in every souk. Every souk is alive with a new story.

5 Chouara Tannery

From the rooftops of leather shops, view the largest tannery in Fes and the oldest tannery in the world. Working in the heat of the day, leather workers dye leather skins in vats of all shades, classified by National Geographic as one of the hardest jobs in the world.

From above, vats in shades from saffron orange to yellow turmeric to rosy-pink safflower gleam in the sun. The smell and the heat can be overwhelming. Many leather shopkeepers will offer you a sprig of mint when entering their rooftop terrace. Shop keepers will give you mint when entering, a small tip or souvenir purchase is a nice thank you. Some great things to buy here are leather jackets, bags, poufs, and my favorite, “magic” coin purses!

6 Have dinner with locals

The best food comes from people’s hones, shared from the love of their kitchen and the hospitality of their country. This is the best food you’ll eat in Morocco! Book for lunch or dinner in this artist’s home and be amazed by the depths of flavors cooked up in this home kitchen for almost half the price of any restaurant. If you have the time, Mohamed also hosts plaster art workshops and city tours.

7 Discover secrets of the medina on a walking tour

Our guide, Sayed, lived in the medina his whole life, and could tell us stories of growing up swimming in the Oued Fes river that divides the old medina. He knows the side streets and alleys of the medina like the lines in his palm. Having a guide in Fes is like having an oracle, someone to guide you to places you never would have seen or noticed or found without a guided tour. We learned an incomparable amount about Moroccan history, culture, and tradition thanks to him.

8 Watch the sunrise or sunset

For the best view of Fes, make your way to the rooftop of your riad, a restaurant terrace, or the historic Marinid Tombs for sweeping views over the medina. As you gaze out over the labyrinthine streets and ancient architecture, the city reveals its intricate beauty in layers of earthy tones and vibrant rooftops. The minarets of centuries-old mosques rise against the backdrop of the rolling hills, and the medina’s maze-like layout unfolds like a living map.

The view is especially captivating at sunset, when the fading light casts a warm glow over the cityscape, highlighting the rich textures and colors of Fes. Whether you’re sipping mint tea on a terrace or standing among the ruins of the Marinid Tombs, you’ll leave with a new appreciation of Fes’s timeless charm.

9 Find Omar’s secret antique shop

Discovering Omar’s hidden antique shop in Fes is like stumbling upon a well-kept secret of the medina. Tucked away down a narrow, unassuming alley, the shop’s entrance is marked only by a modest wooden sign that barely hints at the treasures within. As you step inside, you’re transported into a different era, surrounded by a captivating array of artifacts that tell stories of Morocco’s rich past.

The air is filled with the rich scent of aged wood and antique textiles, and the soft glow of lanterns highlights intricately carved furniture, delicate ceramics, and vintage jewelry. Omar, the shop’s owner, greets you with a warm smile, eager to share history (and his record collection) with you. Every corner holds a new discovery, from ornate brass lamps to handwoven carpets, making it a treasure trove.

10 Stay in a beautiful riad

One of my favorite things about Morocco is always the secrets that await on the other side of a riad door. Opening the door to Riad El Ammine Fes, we found blue pools, intricate zellig tiles, courtyards flooded with warm light, and warm Moroccan tea. Staying at a beautiful riad in Fes is like stepping into a serene sanctuary. As you enter through intricately carved wooden doors, you’re greeted by a peaceful courtyard, where lush greenery creates a tranquil oasis.

The riad’s traditional Moroccan architecture is adorned with vibrant zellige tiles, ornate plasterwork, and rich textiles. In the mornings, enjoy a traditional Moroccan breakfast—freshly baked pastries, sweet fruit, and strong mint tea—on the sun-drenched terrace overlooking the medina’s maze of narrow alleys. Whether you’re lounging by the pool or unwinding in a cozy, candlelit corner, the riad’s charm and hospitality capture the essence of Fes’s timeless allure.

How to Plan Your Trip to Fes

Where to Stay in Fes

Fes has a range of accommodation from budget to luxury to suit every budget. If you’re traveling on a budget, considering booking accommodation within walking distance of the medina to save money on taxis.

How to Get to Fes

With beautiful scenery, trains are the most enjoyable way to travel. First class train tickets are more spacious, have assigned seating, and a snack service!

How to Get Around Fes

Ask for a metered taxi! Many taxis will refuse to use the meter, instead charging exhorbant prices. Agree on a price beforehand or find a taxi somewhere there are tourist police, such as outside the Blue Gate. A 10 minute ride should cost no more than 20 dirhams (even with more than one person and luggage).
 
Some cities, such as Marrakesh, Casablanca, and Rabat have an Uber equivalent called Careem.

Harassment in Fes

Although it’s a fantastic country to visit, verbal sexual harassment in Morocco is unfortunately very common and a deterrent to a “perfect” holiday. Especially if you’re a woman traveling solo or with other women, you’ll be inundated by comments, sounds like “psst” or “sss”, and looks by men. As tiring as it can be, don’t let catcalling stop you from visiting this beautiful country. Just be aware before booking your trip.

When I first visited Morocco (solo with other women), I learned how to say “Shame on you,” pronounced “Ha-shoe-ma a-leek,” and it can be helpful in the worst situations.

That doesn’t mean it isn’t a fantastic country to visit, but you should be aware when planning your trip.

Drones in Morocco

Drones are BANNED in Morocco. You need to declare them at the airport, and they’ll be confiscated until the end of your trip. If you’re not flying out of the same airport, you’ll have to ask Customs to ship it to the airport you’re flying out of.

Health in Fes

As always, you’ll want to travel prepared with a probiotic, Imodium (for traveler’s diarrhea), and cold & flu medicine.
 
If you’re allergic or sensitive to hair dye, DO NOT let anyone give you “black henna”; it’s not real henna but actually hair dye.
 

Travel Insurance for Morocco

Whatever you do, don’t travel without travel insurance. Whether it’s sickness, theft, or lost luggage, something WILL go wrong, and travel insurance is your only way of lessening costs!