ESWATINI

Days 1 to 3 – Camping and walking with rhinos in Hlane National Park

1 Hlane National Park

If you only have time for ONE thing in Eswatini, make it a safari at Hlane National Park, Eswatini Big 5 park. “Hlane” is the Siswati word for wilderness, and it is THE place to go and see rhino in southern Africa. On just one self-drive at Hlane, we saw more wild rhinos than we’d seen in our entire lives!

With camping costing 145 SZL (about 8 USD) per person, an 80 SZL (4 USD) entrance fee, and just 270 SZL (about 14 USD) for a two-hour bush walk, this might be the most affordable place in southern Africa to cross walking with rhinos off your bucket list.

We camped at Ndlovu. At night, the gas-lit lanterns give Ndlovu a charming and romantic feel. Listening to the distant calls of lions will make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time to a place of untouched natural beauty.

“Ndlovu” is Siswati for elephants, and this camp is an escape into nature with private chalets, camping, a convenient restaurant with a view facing the watering hole, a favorite morning spot for Hlane’s rhinos.

At night, fall asleep to the distant calls of lions and the chirping of crickets, and wake up to a litany of birdsong.

Days 3 to 5 – Culture, history, and hiking in Eswatini’s Mlilwane National Park

In Eswatini, time is measured slowly; its peace is felt in the breeze of brightly painted batiks in its informal markets, the leisurely graze of antelopes across verdant green valleys, and in the rhythm of crickets and drumbeats echoing across its many mountains.

Start the rest of your trip by staying in Mlilwane National Park, while visiting the nearby museum and craft shops to get to know Eswatini’s history, culture, and wildlife.

2 Hiking in Mlilwane National Park

This is a special place, unlike many in southern Africa, where you are free to roam 9 of Mlilwane’s hiking trails on foot without a guide. We easily spotted zebras, wildebeest, kudu, waterbuck, nyala, Blesbuck, mountain reedbuck, impala, vervet monkeys, baboons, warthogs, and on our last day, even a side striped jackal.

At night, listen for the sound of drums echoing across the “Ezwulini” Valley, the Valley of Heaven, the music of crickets, and the roar of the fire.

Mlilwane National Park has a range of accommodations from backpackers dorms to private suites. The backpackers dorm costs 175 SZL (about 9 USD) for one person. A private rondavel costs 420 SZL (about 22 USD) for one person or 600 SZL (about 32 USD) for two people. Dinners at the lodge cost 145 SZL (about 7 USD) per person and 105 SZL (about 5 USD) for breakfast. There’s also a park entry fee of 150 SZL ( about 8 USD) for two people.

3 Eswatini National Museum

Think about it. How much do you actually know about Eswatini? For example, did you even know it’s called Eswatini now and not Swaziland, or that they’re the last absolute monarchy in Africa? How about why they became an independent country instead of a part of South Africa? It’s time for that to change. Gain a greater appreciation for Eswatini’s history, tradition, and culture by visiting the national museum.

4 Swazi Candles and Sambane Coffee

Using a unique wax-molding technique, artisans at Swazi Candles create candles shaped like animals, flowers, and abstract designs, each piece showcasing the vivid artistry of Swazi culture.

While there, enjoy lunch for 100 SZL or less at Sambane Coffee, overlooking the bright colors of the market. From their sunny patio, look out onto the market and brightly painted batiks swaying in the wind.

5 Baobab Batik

Baobab Batik is more than just a craft shop—it’s a celebration of creativity and empowerment. Located in Ezulwini Valley, this initiative trains local artisans to create intricate hand-dyed textiles using traditional batik techniques. Each piece is a work of art, from colorful wall hangings to wearable fabrics that tell stories of Swazi culture.

Tour the workshop to witness the batik-making process and shop for unique souvenirs, knowing you’re supporting sustainable livelihoods for local women. That’s one way to use tourism for good!

6 Gone Rural

Specializing in woven home goods made from indigenous grasses, Gone Rural works with hundreds of women from rural Eswatini. Each product, from vibrant placemats to intricately designed baskets, combines artistry with functionality.

Visit to learn about the weaving process, shop for one-of-a-kind pieces, and support an initiative that prioritizes fair wages and environmental sustainability.

Days 5 to 7 – Tintsaba, “mountains,” and Malolotja Nature Reserve

7 Tintsaba

Tintsaba, meaning “mountains” in siSwati, elevates traditional sisal weaving to an art form. This women-led cooperative produces exquisite jewelry, baskets, and home decor using locally sourced fibers. Every item reflects impeccable craftsmanship, showcasing the fine detail and patience that goes into each creation.

Tintsaba’s mission extends beyond artistry, providing education and economic opportunities to empower women artisans. A visit here is not only a chance to purchase beautiful goods but also to support a movement that uplifts local communities.

8 Malolotja Nature Reserve

Wildlife sightings, including antelope and even zebra, are common. The best part? Entrance costs just 75 SZL (about 4 USD).

Malolotja Nature Reserve offers one of the most stunning and untouched landscapes in Eswatini. Spanning rolling hills, dramatic cliffs, and endless grasslands, the reserve is a haven for hiking enthusiasts. The trails vary in difficulty, making it accessible for both casual walkers and seasoned trekkers.

For the waterfall hike, follow the hiking sign, then take the hike on the right. Follow the trail to a stream and keep left.

How to Plan Your Trip to Eswatini

Where to Stay in Eswatini

Before your trip to Eswatini, you’ll find a variety of accommodation options to suit your preferences and budget. In nearby South Africa, Johannesburg offers an array of hotels, hostels, and guesthouses—perfect for a stopover before crossing the border. For the ultimate safari experience, consider staying in Kruger National Park before adding Eswatini to your trip.

How to Get to Eswatini

The drive from Johannesburg takes approximately 4-5 hours, while Durban is about 6 hours away. Alternatively, fly into King Mswati III International Airport, located near Manzini, from major hubs like Johannesburg. Ensure your vehicle documents are in order if self-driving, as border officials may request them.

Road Safety in Eswatini

Eswatini loves unmarked speed humps. Be on the lookout, especially near towns and roundabouts. Drivers (in Eswatini) signal on the right if it’s safe to pass.

Health in Eswatini

Malaria is a risk in Eswatini (as well as in Kruger National Park), so make sure to take anti-malaria tablets. Carry insect repellent and wear long sleeves, especially during dawn and dusk.

Tap water may not always be safe to drink, so stick to bottled or filtered water.

Save local emergency numbers, and if you’re planning outdoor activities like hiking, ensure your first aid kit is well-stocked. Don’t forget travel insurance!

Travel Insurance for Eswatini

Whatever you do, don’t travel without travel insurance. Whether it’s sickness, theft, or lost luggage, something WILL go wrong, and travel insurance is your only way of lessening costs!